Repsol YPF

 
It is not an easy task for a DIY enthusiast, but if the correct steps are followed they can tackle simple designs, or at least, suggest a specific concrete proposal to a carpenter so as to produce a totally customised wardrobe.
 
All wardrobe interiors include shelving, drawers and rails. These would be the minimum elements to achieve coherent distribution. But the most advisable would be to increase the sections and add a space at the top to store suitcases, a shoe rack and several vertical sections.
 
If the wardrobe is tall enough, the suitcase space is essential for storing clothes for other seasons, travel bags and anything else that is not frequently used. In order that this upper section is sufficiently consistent, it is recommended that you include one vertical division per door. In this way, in addition to establishing clear separations which will help to improve organisation, the structure will be more solid.
 
When it comes to the drawers, you can install as many as the user requires bearing in  mind the wardrobe capacity, but a series of issues must be taken into account before embarking on designs which are not very functional. If the number of drawers is excessive, the clothes hanging from the rail may touch them, which is unnecessary and detrimental to the garments.
 
The most practical thing would be to have as many drawers as will fit in the lower part of the wardrobe without touching the clothes. It must also be taken into consideration that the height of each drawer should not be less than 15cm and that it is best that they have metal guide rails to make it easy to open and close them.
 
When it comes to the hanging rail, an oval shape is more recommendable than a rounded one as it is more resistant, and in the event that it is very long, it is recommended that you reinforce it with a supporting bracket halfway along which is screwed to the shelf for storing suitcases.
 
Lining: types of finish
Typically wardrobes are lined so that garments do not pick up the dust from the wall. The materials which are most commonly used for this purpose are laminated sheets and plastic-treated planks, the former are highly recommendable as they are very resistant and there are countless options in different designs.
 
The biggest disadvantage of this task lies in obtaining the correct measurements due to the general unevenness of the walls. Consequently, it is common that the joins between the planks and the ceiling and floor are not perfect, something which can be resolved by adding small strips of laminated wood to complete the surface.
 
The first step is to thoroughly clean the part that is going to be lined and sand it with medium grit sandpaper. If there are any holes in the wall, they must be filled with acrylic filler, wait for it to dry, then sand the surface and wipe away the dust.
 
Then hold up the laminated sheet and assess whether it is the correct size. If it isnt, cut off the extra wood before sticking it using a professional saw and smooth the edges with a metal brush.  Then you apply the contact adhesive and spread it uniformly over the wall and then stick the sheet of wood using a roller, rolling it from the centre out towards the edges so that it sticks to the wall sufficiently.
 
If there are small uncovered areas, usually at the top and at the bottom, you add the necessary strips of laminated wood until the interior is completely covered. Finally, you wipe a damp sponge over it to remove any trace of dust or dirt.
 
Other materials for covering the inside of the wardrobe are paint, paper, cloth and chipboard.  The latter is undoubtedly the most expensive option but also that which looks best due to its superior quality.
 
Paint is a good alternative for a small space since it does not steal centimetres of wardrobe space. If you choose this material, you will need to opt for plastic paint, which cleans the best, and avoid distemper as it will dirty the clothes when they touch the wall.
 
Paper and fabric are useful options if you want the wardrobe to also serve as insulation or soundproofing, as in both cases the lining is placed on top of a padded base.